Masi Campofiorin 2009

Masi campofiorinMasi were the founders of a technique in the Valpolicella area called Ripasso, and this wine, the Campofiorin is the one they first did it with. It’s been very successful, and you’ll see plenty of other examples around.

Masi discovered that if they put the fermented juice of a fresh young Valpolicella red (Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara blend from the Venetian wine region in northern Italy) back in a vat with the must of a freshly made Amarone (Same region and grape varieties, but the grapes are dried before pressing to increase concentration and alcohol levels), and gave it a secondary fermentation, they could make a wine with some of the complexity of an Amarone (which are usually very expensive wines), but for the price of not much more than a standard Valpolicella.

This wine has a little waxy/plaster strip on the nose. Brettanomyces, I’m afraid, but in this instance it’s not altogether unwelcome. It’s not throwing the wine totally out of balance, as there’s still raisins and raspberries evident, showing it hasn’t masked the fruit. Cloves and almonds follow. The palate incredibly soft, and here’s where the brett has done the wine a favour – it’s assisted in dulling the phenolic compounds a little (you know all those green, herby characters, and the raw feel of sour apple skin on the teeth). There’s some lovely cedar and earth flavours. Plums and cherries are there, but the wine is predominantly savoury. Bitter almonds on the finish, possibly a little less tannin than I would like, but all-in-all, a very pleasant drinking wine that many will absolutely adore.

Drink now
14/20
75AED + Tax (MMI stores, or tax free from Al Hamra, the Cellar)

One Comment

  1. I really enjoyed this wine when we drank it the other night at Rondo Locatelli however you are so right about it not being particularly fruit driven which is a bit of a surprise when you first taste it. Cloves and a soft charcoal flavour particularly came through for me. Pleasant drinking with a different style of wine from the usual reds served.

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